AdventuresNW
The mountains of British Columbia are justifiably world famous for their rugged beauty and isolation, stretching in range after glorious range across the vast province, which is larger than France and Germany combined. British Columbia is a mountain lover’s dream come true.
If the words ‘Larch Madness’ have you racing for your gear, then you’ll love the Kootenays.
The province’s southeast corner is home to the magnificent Purcell and Selkirk Ranges; together with the Monashees, they are part of the greater Columbia Mountains. These ranges, along with the western flanks of the Rockies, lie within the region known as the Kootenays. But the Kootenays are more than just lofty wild peaks clad in glaciers. Its numerous valleys contain large fjord-like lakes and quaint little towns with vibrant art communities. Because the nearby and more famous Canadian Rockies draw most of the tourist crowds, the Kootenays remain relatively quiet and unknown. Outdoor enthusiasts visiting the Kootenays will find them refreshingly unspoiled.
The Purcells and Selkirks, while nearly abutting each other, are geologically distinct and visually different ranges. Together, they contain two national parks, numerous provincial parks, one wilderness conservancy, and enough impressive peaks and glaciers to enthrall even the most discerning mountain aficionado. Also, vast stretches of wild wilderness, all of which could easily qualify for national park status, lie between these protected areas.
For hikers, backpackers, climbers, and backcountry skiers, the Kootenays offer the kind of freedom that is rapidly disappearing in parks and wilderness areas throughout the world. With a few exceptions, such as Glacier National Park and Bugaboo Provincial Park, permits and fees are not required. One can just show up at a trailhead and enjoy the freedom of the hills. The Purcell and Selkirk Mountains are also home to many sub-alpine meadows with beautiful stands of Alpine, or Sub-Alpine Larch (Larix lyallii) If the words ‘Larch Madness’ have you racing for your gear, then you’ll love the Kootenays. In the North Cascades, many of the best larch locations can be ridiculously overcrowded or increasingly out of reach due to strict permitting systems. But in the Kootenays, finding a beautiful spot and having it all to yourself is still possible.
In contrast to the welcome emptiness, it must be noted that several areas are popular destinations for the heli-hiking and heli-skiing crowd. Canadian Mountains Holidays (CMH) is one of several luxury lodges operating in the Selkirks and Purcells. It can be disconcerting to grunt and sweat your way into a beautiful alpine basin only to hear the constant thumping of helicopters (or worse, unknowingly setting up a camp next to a landing area).
A couple of other things to consider when planning a trip to the Kootenays are road access and trail conditions. Access to trailheads can consist of a long drive on gravel roads, which are often very narrow and bone-jarringly rough. While most don’t require a 4×4 vehicle, they usually require high clearance. And for those accustomed to hiking along well-maintained trails in the Pacific Northwest, a hike in the Kootenays can be an eye-opener. Many trails receive little or no maintenance and are merely rough routes over roots, rocks, and boulders, with nary a switchback.
In addition, if you’re traveling from western Washington, you can expect a long circuitous drive. Except for Glacier National Park’s Rogers Pass on the Trans-Canada Highway, these destinations generally require driving up and down long valleys and often require (free) ferry rides across lakes. It’s usually a good idea to plan a full day of driving to get to the trailhead, but the journey takes you through some awe-inspiring scenery, and along the way, you’ll get a chance to experience the local vibe.
The Kootenays are also home to several commercially-operated hot springs. These are sprinkled throughout the region and are just the thing after a rewarding trip into the mountains.
Planning your Trip
There are many spectacular trail destinations in the Kootenays, including Glacier National Park (not the one in Montana), Valhalla Provincial Park, Bugaboo Provincial Park, and Jumbo Pass. For more info, check out www.westkootenayhiking.ca. Excellent guidebooks include Where Locals Hike in the West Kootenay: Premier Trips Near Kaslo & Nelson by Kathy and Craig Copeland and Hikes Around Invermere and the Columbia Valley by Aaron Cameron and Matt Gunn.
Alan Majchrowicz is a landscape and nature photographer living with his family in Bellingham, WA. His images have appeared in advertising campaigns, product design, tourism brochures, books, magazines, and calendars. Learn more at alanmajchrowicz.com.
