The Inside Passage is a protected water route that weaves through islands and narrow channels along the North American West Coast. Its southernmost point is Olympia, Washington and it travels north for roughly 1200 miles to Skagway, Alaska. Last summer my partner, Jeremy, and I set out to kayak its length. The idea was born during a seemingly casual conversation …
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Sea Kayaking the West Coast of the West Coast
The bow of my kayak digs a groove into the sand, and I get out and stretch. Maria sheds her dry suit and takes off running down the perfect, uninhabited two-mile crescent of warm sand. Bruce pokes around in tide pools. I wander up the beach, following wolf tracks. An eagle whistles from the trees. Somewhere in the bay I …
Read More »Saving Chuckanut Island
I am standing here on the west side of Chuckanut Island trying to understand what I am seeing and what to do about it. This five-acre nature preserve is my responsibility—my wife Aimee and I are the stewards of this Nature Conservancy-owned land, officially known as the Cyrus Gates Memorial Preserve. There are beer cans and snack bags strewn about. …
Read More »The Wildest River in the World…and How It Stayed That Way
“We’re going for Door # 2,” Maria announces. “We think there’s enough space between the icebergs and Gateway Knob.” We push off and row against the strong current of the Alsek River. A moment later, we’re squeezing a raft between the island and a set of massive icebergs, while the current tries to yank us into a whirlpool of exquisite …
Read More »Summer Cruising on Diablo Lake: History, Poetry and Mountains Majesty
Unique in the National Park system, the partnership between Seattle City Light, North Cascades National Park, and the North Cascades Institute offers visitors a plethora of recreational delights. Among them, a tour on Diablo Lake aboard the Alice Ross IV provides a relaxing—and inspiring—way to while away a summer’s day. There are two options for visitors: the three-hour lunch tour …
Read More »Once
On late evenings like this one I’ll collapse into bed still dressed and dirty and too tired to change. I smell of wood smoke and bamboo and my long sleeves are soaked wet with creek water. Most of the time, my bedtime stories tell themselves. Nights often end this way after countless days saturated by water and fire, …
Read More »Paddling with Ghosts: A Long Strange Journey Down the Spokane River
Rivers teach us, and I wanted the Spokane River to teach me. When I began working for the Spokane Riverkeeper, newly arrived in eastern Washington, I knew I had to see the whole river for myself. My Riverkeeper colleagues had long lived along its banks and they do an impressive job of protecting their river, but they hadn’t paddled the …
Read More »A Journey Home: The Skagit from Source to Sea
A large drop of rain fell on my leg. Then another. A deep boom of thunder reverberated through the mountain peaks. It began to pour. The rain dripped from the trees and shrubs, cascading onto the ground in rivulets and feeding, right there at our feet, the tiny creek that was the source of the Skagit River. These particular drops …
Read More »Tips to Take Your Dog Paddling
Have you ever considered taking Fido along for a paddle? In many cases, man’s furry best friend is a great companion on the water as well as dry land. Fun? Quite likely. Simple to get started? Not so much. Some preparation and training are required. It’s not going to be as easy as choosing the best casino from Pennsylvania online …
Read More »Paddling Paradox: Autumn Paddling in the San Juan Islands
We paddled around the small headland and entered a glassy pool that reflected dark conifers. It was another world entirely than the one we just departed. The early evening light softened the scene into lazy shadows and rich colors. We relaxed when we heard the soft crunch of sand as our kayaks come to rest on the beach. Just an …
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