Ode to Autumn in the North Cascades

Of all the seasons, autumn is unquestionably the glory time in the North Cascades. The high country is open for exploration, the snow mostly gone, the bugs done for the season, and the meadows are ablaze in a kaleidoscope of vibrant color. The crowds––like the insects–– have thinned, and the nights are crisp and ablaze with stars. The sense of impermanence is front and center, creating a deep appreciation for the here and now. It’s a time of renewal, a time to savor the present moment, which, after all, is all we have.

 

At the crest of the North Cascades Highway, Washington Pass is emblematic of the rugged beauty of the North Cascades. Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires, Silver Star Mountain, The Wine Spires, Snagtooth Ridge––one is surrounded by inspiring mountain splendor. In autumn, golden larches illuminate the fringes of forest beneath the awe-inspiring peaks.

Mount Baker is our) mountain. At 10,786 feet, it dominates the landscape of northwestern Washington, a timeless landmark. Few mountains possess such power and beauty, rising as it does among the sea of peaks that form the North Cascades. Clad in the ice of ancient glaciers, its graceful summit gleams in the sun, a beacon against the northern sky.  The view from Yellow Aster Butte on an autumn afternoon offers a color palette that dazzles the eye: the icy blue of Koma Kulshan rising above the high meadows of the Butte painted in crimson, gold, and burgundy.

The eastern edges of the North Cascades are especially beautiful at this radiant time of year. Golden larches gleam like torches in the autumn sun, radiating a glow warm enough to gird one’s soul against the coming darkness of winter. Upper Eagle Lake, cupped in a raw basin of talus and scree, provides a sublime reflecting pool for larches and soaring spires.

The international border that crosses the North Cascades is a place of special beauty. The Border Peaks––such as Mt. Larrabee and American and Canadian Border Peaks––offer high drama with their soaring cliffs, snow-dappled summits and pristine alpine meadows. This is wild country, and their location on the Canadian border emphasizes how our mountain grandeur transcends man-made borders.

The views from Sahale Arm are beautiful at any time of the year, but in autumn, when the meadows are aglow in warm hues, this exposed ridge is truly radiant. The way involves some huffing and puffing, but offers non-stop visual delights, culminating at a high vantage point just below the Sahale Glacier. It’s a popular destination (and exceedingly fragile), so please tread lightly.

The high country surrounding Harts Pass on the eastern flanks of the North Cascades is a larch paradise in autumn. A long, bumpy road will take you to a smooth, easy-going trail (part of the PCT) that traverses Tatie Peak to deliver supplicants to the hallowed environs of Grasshopper Pass. Every step is wildly scenic, with views out over the rugged peaks, including close-at-hand Azurite Peak and Mt. Ballard.

There’s something about a mountain lake on a calm and quiet autumn afternoon.  A sense of peacefulness. Serenity.  I’ve spent many happy hours on the sweet shores of Cutthroat Lake, savoring the reflections and listening to the silence. The trail that transports hikers to the lake is easy and provides an excellent opportunity for young and old to savor this colorful season.

In the grand pageantry of autumn, it is easy to miss the small details. The frosted leaves, the first fingers of ice on alpine tarns, the blush of magenta and crimson that paint the forest floor. Move slowly across the landscape and savor these manifestations of seasonal change, some vibrant, some subtle. These microcosms tell the story of the cycles that permeate the landscape, speaking eloquently about impermanence and rebirth.

It has been said that Mt. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world, a dubious claim, but one that speaks to the majestic mountain majesty of its dramatic western face as seen from Artist Point and a host of trails in the Mt. Baker area. The vantage point at Heather Meadows is especially breathtaking, and when autumn color peaks around the shores of aptly named Picture Lake, the view is unforgettable.

Offering unbeatable bang for your buck, the Ptarmigan Ridge Trail is a feast for the senses in autumn when the slopes are tinted in crimson and magenta. Especially beautiful is the Mountain Ash, its leaves a vibrant gold at this time of the year. A day spent wandering the gentle ups and downs of this trail is a day well spent, with non-stop views including classic vistas of Koma Kulshan and Shuksan.

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